Noi review: Neighbourhood Italian brings touch of class to inner west

NOI ★★★★

108 Audley Street, Petersham

When a new restaurant opens up in your neighbourhood, the expectations are high. Because no matter how cool you play it, chances are you’ve been frustrated and waiting, like climate champion Greta Thunberg, for someone to step in and make some (overdue) changes.

Noi brings classy Italian and grown-up dining to Petersham. Credit:Dominic Lorrimer

On Petersham’s Audley Street, that fresh-faced newcomer is Noi. The name translates to "us" in Italian and in this case refers to LuMi co-owner Anastasia Drakopoulos, chef Alessandro Intini (ex-Aqua Dining) and his kitchen (and life) partner Federica Costa.

The fact the project is led by Drakopoulos should give you a hint of excitement and relief. The seasoned restaurateur is part of Sydney Restaurant Group – a hospo giant founded by her father Bill Drakopoulos, which owns successful eateries such as Ormeggio at the Spit, Ripples and Aqua Dining. At the latter, she met Intini and together they decided to open something in the inner city.

Petersham may have plenty of affordable, beloved Portuguese eateries, but a nice night out is something that still involves a commute. Even with the addition of seafood wunderkind Fich last year, "special occasion" options in the suburb are scarce. With Noi, Drakopoulos hopes to bring a polished but unfussy neighbourhood Italian to the area. An inner west answer to LuMi, if you will. “Locals should be able to walk to dinner,” says Drakopoulos.

Cappon magro, the popular Genoan seafood salad, has been transformed with an elegant piece of sea mullet and surrounded by dots of red beetroot gel, parsley mayonnaise, black garlic and a silky potato cream. Credit:Dominic Lorrimer

At Noi, the best thing isn’t just the proximity, but the feeling you’re in for a proper, no-nonsense treat. You might sense this as soon you walk into the sleek, polished wood and leather-clad dining room. A long marble-topped bar hugs the open kitchen, where diners get to watch Intini and Costa work.

Grab an excellent (read strong) negroni and relax into the short but surprising menu. The line-up takes playful influence from the pair’s respective Italian home towns – the north-eastern region of Veneto and seaside Genoa.

Under entrees, for example, you’ll spot things such as "cappon magro" – a popular Genoan seafood and vegetable salad from the Italian Riviera that’s stacked high like a technicolour pyramid. In Noi’s version, however, it’s an elegant piece of sea mullet, steamed with thyme, garlic and lime and surrounded by a spread of colourful dots that turn out to be red beetroot gel, parsley mayonnaise, black garlic and a silky potato cream.

There are plenty of familiar touches, too. LuMi fans will recognise the intricate free snacks and house-made breads at the start of the meal. Our amuse bouche for the night were coin-sized baos with pulled duck that had been cooked down with soy, ginger and veal jus; and squares of smoky ox tongue topped with lime mustard mayo. Both delicious – and with Asian flavours you’ll spot throughout the menu.

The Cloudy Bay clam risotto is laced with fresh asparagus.Credit:Dominic Lorrimer

In the pig’s head terrine, Intini’s training as a butcher shines through in the ultimate nose-to-tail dish. No gelatin is used – only soft, slow-cooked meat that’s been compressed and flavoured in a master stock. Warmed slightly and dressed in coconut foam, the delicate pork disc is incredible value at $18.

Other unmissable options come mainly from the pasta section. A Cloudy Bay clam risotto is cooked to order and laced with fresh asparagus as well as a grassy emulsion from the vegetable as garnish. Or go for the veal bolognese – a hearty, buttery number that stays true to its original form with a white-based sauce. The whole thing is finished with a dusting of dried Sicilian olives for a subtle salty hit.

You might want to push the Asian-Italian boundaries with a "terramisu" (mascarpone with miso soil) to finish. But for our money, it’s best to save your enthusiasm for a return visit. With a local this good, you can expect some couch-bound friends to leave home and flock to your territory.

THE LOWDOWN

Main attraction: LuMi co-owner Anastasia Drakopoulos brings a smart, unfussy neighbourhood Italian to Petersham. Expect plenty of interesting takes on regional dishes from the head chef’s home town.

Must-try: Cappon magro – a traditional Genoan seafood dish with a modern, photo-friendly spin.

Insta-worthy dish: The colourful cappon magro or the coconut foam-topped pig’s head terrine.

Drinks: Cocktails $14-$16; wine by the glass, $13-$19.

Prices: Entrees $16-$20; pastas $18-$21; mains $26-$31.

Hours: Mon-Tue 5pm-10pm; Thu 12pm-3.30pm, 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat 12pm-3.30pm, 5pm-11pm; Sun 12pm-3.30pm, 5pm-10pm; closed Wednesdays.

IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

Fich at Petersham brings more than fish and chips to the menu. Credit:Brook Mitchell

FICH AT PETERSHAM

Shop 3, 98-106 Audley Street, Petersham

No ordinary fish shop, chef Manny Paraiso’s smart-casual restaurant has a fun but technically refined seafood menu that stretches from blue swimmer crab pasta to seafood dumplings. All produce is sustainably caught, too.

MICROCOSM
328 Stanmore Road, Petersham

If you’re after a one-stop shop for all things green and beautiful, Jana Stewart’s Microcosm is for you. From fiddle-leaf figs to the unpronounceables, you’ll find something to satisfy your inner plant lady/gent. For the green thumbs, Stewart runs regular workshops on plant care.

GLORIA'S

82 Audley Street, Petersham

An institution in Little Portugal, you can’t say you know the suburb until you’ve eaten at this old-timey, buzzy eatery. Treat yourself to classics such as heaped plates of feijoada (a meat and bean stew with rice) or lulas recheadas (stuffed calamari) – just don’t forget the dulce de leche pudding.

CHARLIE'S DELI

37 New Canterbury Road, Petersham

A mainstay in the local, food-loving community, Charlie’s Deli is rumoured to have the best Portuguese cheese and bacalhau. Go for a pantry top-up and come home with a mortadella-and-provolone sandwich that’ll blow your mind.

SWEET BELEM

35B New Canterbury Road, Petersham

Most Sydney pastry nerds would tell you Sweet Belem is the OG of Sydney’s best Portuguese tarts. Those slightly scorched, crispy shelled bad boys have been popular with the locals for years. Get on board and throw in a custardy Portuguese doughnut while you’re there.

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